A day in the Alps (Stage 19 TdF, Bourg-d'Oisans > Le Grand-Bornand, 204.5km)

The middle day of the “Alpine Triple” was the longest (205km) and involved the most amount of climbing (5,000m). Arguably it was the Queen stage of the whole Tour and, other than the Ventoux stage, was the one that most of the riders were concerned about / fearing. No matter how you approached it, it was going to be a long day in the saddle!

The briefing the night before was detailed and the tension around the room was palpable. People were already feeling tired from having been up Alpe d’Huez twice within the last few hours… to be told they would be going up two more HC climbs, from the harder sides, within the first 80km of the stage wasn’t necessarily welcome news.

A big day meant an early start. Breaking from the traditional format of all regrouping at the first feed stop we were offered the opportunity to set off from Alpe d’Huez at anytime between 7 and 7.30am. Today everyone would be going at their own pace. The slower riders being urged to set off as early as possible.

I set off at around 7.25am with a bunch of the Linklaters crew. Pt, Janice and JK had set off and were down the road already.

Whilst the official Tour route would leave Bourg-d’Oisans we started from our hotel atop Alpe d’Huez and descended down to join up with the route at Lac du Verney. The views as we left the hotel and started our descent were magnificent, the morning sun lighting the clouds that sat below us in the valley. We descended the first 4km of the climb and took a right at the village of Huez along to Villard-Reculas giving great balcony views of the valley and the legendary switchbacks of the Alpe d’Huez climb.

Not a bad view to wake up to....

Another fast descent, through the clouds, took us to the base of the Col du Glandon / Col de la Croix de Fer climb and our first HC climb of the day – 22km to the top of the Glandon.

Knowing that another monster of a climb was to come and that the rest of stage was no walk in the park either, I tapped out a very comfortable pace and slowly worked my way up through a number of the earlier starters.

Epic Alpine mornings...

Cycling in the cool and crisp mountain air as the climb took us first through tree lined forests before opening up to rugged green pastures and mountain vistas (yet again) provided breath-taking scenery, making even such a long climb thoroughly enjoyable.

Standard

Looking up towards the Col de la Croix de Fer

Another fast descent took us to our first feed station, halfway down to the valley. Following a quick coffee and some food we set off again with the second half of the descent delivering us directly to the base of the Col de la Madeleine. Phil had described this 19km climb at an average of 8% as the hardest climb of this years Tour.

It was true that the climb was relentless (it maintained its 8% gradient for the entire 19km), but taken at a comfortable pace again it was nothing to fear. The views were fabulous and it wasn’t long before I was at the summit, the second highest point of this year’s Tour (by just a metre!).

Almost the highest point of the Tour

The second feed stop of the day was in the car park at the top and I waited for others to arrive whilst refuelling. I was keen to set off, but others were faffing for quite some time and I opted to head off on the descent with Luke and JK on the assumption that if we slowed in the valley below others would soon catch up.

An awesome 26km decent later (I was pleased to be going down this side, having winched my way up it in the 2010 TdF) I slowed at the bottom, having lost JK and Luke (not renowned for the speed of their descending). I soft pedalled a while, but there was still no sign of the others. As I continued on I was faced with a 20km solo ride across the valley floor into a block headwind – not the most enjoyable 45mins of the day!

I finally caught another rider who had loitered less at the feed stop and rode with him up what should have been on paper a simple climb, but in the heat and after the headwinds was a little tough. At the top we stopped for lunch.

After lunch I headed out with the Lifer that I had caught along the valley floor. All that we had between us and the end of the stage were two final 1^st category climbs – the Col de l’Epine and the Col de la Croix Fry.

Spoilt for views all day long

Whilst they looked simple in comparison to the first two climbs of the day they were still tough climbs – particularly with the number of kilometres already in legs and that they would be ridden in the heat of the day. It was another scorching hot day!

I rode the Col de l’Epine at a steady tempo and waited at the top for my companion before we both descended to the final water stop of the day and then hit the Col de la Croix Fry.

The Croix Fry was a tough little climb, with some really tough sections of well over 10% in the middle, but with the end of the stage in sight it wasn’t too difficult to push on to the summit where I stopped again to wait for my riding partner. Whilst taking a photo I somehow managed to drop my chain only for the guy I had been waiting for at the top of every climb to just ride straight past me and race off down the descent towards the hotel. Odd, but in many ways not unsurprising, behaviour…

The final bump of a massive day (thanks for waiting)!

The final descent into Thones (a town just beyond the official finish in La Grand-Bornand) was very fast and we arrived back at the hotel, together, as the second riders in.

I took advantage of my early arrival to have a (very painful) massage for my weary legs before watching people slowly come in over the course of the next few hours (JK arriving back as the first girl of the day, by some margin, and ahead of the vast majority of everyone else).

We eagerly awaited news of how Pt and Janice had fared during the day and soon learnt that Janice had been really struggling up the Col de la Madeleine, arriving at the top completely dehydrated, exhausted and vomiting. Poor Janice had been forced to get in the van for the rest of the stage and was put on a saline drip in her hotel room to help her recover. Pt meanwhile had been helping Janice up the Madeleine and as a result had lost a lot of time. He arrived at the base of the Col de la Croix Fry too late to be allowed to go over it and had taken a shorter route back to the hotel. Over 30 riders failed to make it over the last climb! Even not making the last 20km loop, Pt had still cycled over 180km (the majority of which as done on his own) and climbed 4,300m – as tough a day as any other stage of the Tour and an awesome achievement.

A blatant disregard for the no needles policy...

As for myself, I had an absolutely awesome day and felt great throughout. The contrasting climbs and scenery and the sheer magnitude of the day encapsulated everything that I love about cycling.

The Double d'Huez - (Stage 18 TdF, Gap > Alpe d'Huez, 168km)

Pt and Janice had arrived in Gap the night before and, jet lagged, were being thrown straight into the deep end.... starting with Stage 18 the Tour would spend three massive days in the Alps, promising exciting racing for the pros and long days for us mere mortals.

Much confusion trying to figure out the bike bags... Pt managed to avoid tyre issues for the first time though

The route for the day would take us over the Alpe d’Huez, twice! It is the first time the Tour has gone over this iconic climb twice in one stage. The day was going to be all about the Alpe...

We started the day by climbing out of Gap up the Col de Manse, they way we had descended in two days previously. I rode with Pt and Janice, it was a good introduction for them - a climb that barely registered on the days profile that was longer and steeper than their training hill - the Peak.

Ready for a long day in the saddle!!

The scenery once at the top of the climb was worth it though. Glorious sunshine with a layer of cloud below us in the valley.

After the first feed I headed off in a slightly faster group and as we comfortably ticked along over the Rampe du Motty and on towards the Col d'Ornon.

Off to the Alpe

After another brief rest we again headed off and climbed the Col d'Ornon at a decent pace before a cracking descent took us all the way down to Bourg-d'Oisans and the base of Alpe d'Huez.

A quick refill of the water bottles and it was every man for himself as we all picked our own pace to climb the 12.3km hors category climb. Knowing the hill well, and that we would be doing it again in only a matter of hours, I rode relatively conservatively. Today certainly wasn't the day to try and beat my best time up the mountain.

Halfway up the Alpe

At the top we stopped for lunch and headed out of the town an onto the Col de Sarenne. It was a short climb, but a pretty punishing one, with lunch still settling and the searing midday heat.

The Col de Sarenne is wild and beautiful, with some stunning scenery again. However, its 'wild' nature unfortunately translates to the quality of the road surface on the descent. A very narrow, steep and technical descent was made even more sketchy by an uneven, potholed and gravel covered surface. The bails of hay with red and white tape on them at cliff edges, corners and posts did nothing to make you feel safer. How in gods name the pros are going to race down that road I don't know!!

The road was so dodgy that my a bolt in my Garmin mount came lose and fell off, I had to stop and fix it and then continue to descend like crazy to catch back on to the group I was with.

Before a final loop back towards Bourg-d'Oisans we stopped at a small café and had an espresso and ice cream before rolling back out for the final climb – the second ascent of the Alpe d’Huez.

Round once more...

The effort going up the second time around was pretty much the same as the first time, except this time in far greater heat. The times for the two climbs were similar, if not anywhere near my best – nice and steady…

Arrivee!!

On hitting the top we had a quick photo and then headed back down into the main village to find a bar to watch the rest of the riders come up and give them a cheer for the final 2km. We settled in and had a few beers and coffees.

Much to my joy there was even a Rapha pop-up shop right across the road.

To feature in the next Rapha catalogue

JK, the birthday girl, hit the top a little later than we had expected having somehow contrived to take a wrong turn and a 10km diversion shortly after having to stand on the side of the road whilst Matt F tried to change an inner tube for 45 minutes.

Birthday girl hits the top (after she found it)!!

Pt and Janice were someway back (having caused a minor panic by not signing into the last feed station so no one knew where they were) and arrived back at the hotel as dinner was starting, broken but having both completed (by far) their longest and most punishing bike ride ever! Awesome.

Stunning mountain time trial (Stage 17 TdF, Embrun > Chorges, 32km ITT)

Stage 17 of this year’s Tour was the second individual time trial. A short 32km blast from Embrun to Chorges with the blue waters of Lake Serre-Poncon as a stunning backdrop.

Again, a shorter day meant a later start - a very civilised 8.30am departure time from the hotel in Gap for a transfer to Embrun. The day, whilst short, included two category 2 climbs so was by no means a ‘recovery’ ride.

Playing it cool at the start... contrary to suggestions - magenta is not my new favourite colour!

From Embrun we were set off at 30 second intervals. The staggered start times were less to simulate a real time trial and more to ensure that we wouldn’t be riding as big groups on narrow twisty roads and technical descents. You wouldn’t have guessed it though from the way a number of people set off (although thankfully we were spared some one coming down in a full skin suit this time… ). [The difference in attitude/approach of the participants as compared to 2010 is something I have found noticeable/interesting and am sure is something that I will touch upon at some point in a later blog]

Frankly, those that did set out to post a time (most likely) missed out on the truly picture postcard vistas we were treated to today. It almost felt like every corner you’d stop to take a photo of the view, only to go round the next corner and be forced to stop again as the view was better.

Awesome!

Again, contrary to suggestions this is the only selfie (so far)

The first of the climbs was the Cote de Puy-Sanieres followed by a narrow steep and technical descent. Great fun and great views. As soon as we hit the bottom of the descent it was straight back uphill again for a slightly longer climb to the Cote de Reallon, before a fast winding descent into Chorges – barely needing to touch the brakes.

I really can’t wait to watch this on the TV in a weeks time!

The length of the stage meant that we were finished by 11.15 and had time to change and stroll into the main square of the town for a coffee and some cake in the sun. Exactly what cycling in the Alps should be.

A short transfer back to Gap meant that we had the afternoon to ourselves. A chance to rest up and relax for the next three days…

A glorious holiday ride (with some hail stones) (Stage 16 TdF, Vaison-la-Romaine > Gap, 168km)

After a massive day two days previously everyone was glad to be setting off at a far more civilised time of day – 7.30am. Not exactly a lie-in, but an improvement.

Added to the ‘late’ rise, it was a glorious day. The perfect day for cycling through Provence. It was also a much more relaxed atmosphere amongst the group – the apprehension of Stage 15 and Ventoux had gone and a rest day spent relaxing by the pool had clearly worked its magic.

The more relaxed atmosphere meant a gentle pace and plenty of stopping to take in the views. It really felt like we were on holiday as we rolled up and over a couple of categorised climbs with stunning scenery on either side.

The route took us out of Bedion and back over the Col de la Madeleine. Not quite the same route as the Tour itself, which would be leaving from Vaison-la-Romaine, but after passing through Malaucene we were quickly on the official route.

As we rode away from Malaucene and up the Col de Macuegne we were treated to a stunning view looking back at Ventoux. Another opportunity to stop and take it all in.

Ventoux, I think I love you...

Dropping down the valley we passed through the small town of Sederon, where road works were underway in preparation for the Tour itself. We had been warned that we could ignore the diversion signs and roll through the road works as they only lasted a few hundred metres.

As I approached I recognised the familiar sight of wet/melting tar and decided to walk my bike round. Others were not so lucky and spent a fair amount of time at the next feed stop trying to clean their wheels of tar. Using wet wipes for this task seemed a little odd though.

Luke was amongst those faffing about the tar on his tyres. He was convinced he was about to get a puncture, but after some pressure decided to roll out again with a big group heading off.

We had barely gone 4km when Luke’s front wheel let out a large hiss. A puncture.

Luke then proceeded to try and change his inner tube. We pulled a tack out of the tyre and then on trying to inflate the tyre, realised that Luke had unthreaded gas canisters for his threaded valve adaptor. Just as we were chiding him, a random dude rode past.

“My wife is in a car just behind me with a track pump if you want”

The guy looked like a pretty serious cyclist. He was as it turned out. He is cycling the route of all three Grand Tours this year a week ahead of the pros – solo! His wife was following him in a car for the whole trip, washing his kit, sterilising his bottles and giving him sports massages each night. Mental!

It turns out she was a little bit mental (the nice type of mental), and after a slightly bizarre conversation we were off again (Luke puncturing again not too far down the road).

We sat and had lunch as the storm clouds gathered over the mountains. The chances of getting wet were increasing.

Once on the road again it wasn’t long before the relaxed attitude of the day was evident again as we dived into a café for a quick espresso. Then an ice cream. And then a round of cokes. The Tour was on the TV and the mood was jovial – it was pretty hard to get back on the bike again.

A couple of the Lifers who had been chilling at the back of the peloton for the day suddenly were having a bit of a jours sans, fatigue sweeping over them. Transition days can be hard, and after such a big day to Ventoux and a the Alps looming, the mental side of things can often be more difficult than the physical. It reminded me a lot of how I felt riding through the artificial forests of Bordeaux in 2010.

We had a fast decent into Gap before starting the final ascent of the day, the Col de Manse. Just as we hit the base of the climb the heavens opened. Hail stones and lightening. The hail was hurting and being on a metal bike was a little concerning. As the torrential rain and streams of water sweeping down the road got heavier and more intense my only thought was to get back into Gap as quickly as possible. Mark T, Luke and I pushed perhaps a little harder than we needed with the dry and warmth firmly in our minds.

Going over the top it was just a narrow step and technical descent to contend with before we were back at the lovely Gapotel…

Rest Day - Ventoux.... again

Getting a rest day on the second day seemed a little bit unfair, but given the day before I wasn’t complaining! Still, as the legs were relatively fresh, I decided to take the opportunity to climb the Ventoux again…

This time, however, the plan was to go over one of the easier sides – the ascent from Malaucene. In some respects it was a little bit of a reccie for my planned Cingles du Mont Ventoux ride in September.

The climb from Malaucene is definitely easier than from Bedoin, it may be longer but the average gradient is less and it is nowhere near as relentless. The views are perhaps more spectacular too.

An enjoyable climb, with great views and a fast descent into Bedoin was rounded off by a lovely long lunch with the Linklaters team before a well deserved afternoon nap.