The Climbs: Col de Peyresourde; Col d'Aspin; Col du Tourmalet; Col d'Aubisque
I have used the words ‘epic’, ‘awesome’ and the like quite a bit to describe the last few days but today’s ride was truly magnificent. Quite simply the best day I have ever spent sur mon vélo!
Today’s stage (and stage 17 to follow) has been designed to celebrate the centenary of the Col du Tourmalet’s inclusion in the Tour de France and paid homage to the original 326km long stage in 1910 when the Tourmalet was introduced by race director Henri Desgrange as the capstone to what would be referred to as the "Circle of Death": the Pyrenean foursome of the Col de Peyresourde, Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet and the Col d'Aubisque. Aside from a 60km run in at the end of the day we would be tackling each of these legendary climbs one after another.
Straight out of the hotel at 6.45am, and with barely 2km in our legs, we hit the base of a mist shrouded Peyresourde, the first Cat 1 climb of the day. We all tackled this at a gentle place as we attempted to warm the legs up. Visibility was limited, but the 16km to the top was incredibly dramatic as we negotiated a classic series of hairpins towards the top of the climb with mist and fog rolling across the roads and the sound of cow bells all around us, even having to avoid sheep as the roamed across the roads.
Williams likes to put in some faux attacks early and shot up the mountain away from me – but alas, this was not to last long and we crested together along with Roly.
Then followed a long and enjoyable descent (if a little cold in the mist) into the charming village of Arreau before shooting immediately back up into the mist again for a 12km climb to the top of the Col de l’Aspin (Cat 1). The narrower roads here and the enclosed feeling the mist gave this climb a more intimate feel. As we hit the top there was a large herd of cows waiting for us, along with some coffee to warm us and our first feed stop of the day. I am told that the views here are outstanding, but visibility was limited to around 15m so we will definitely have to visit again on a slightly clearer day.
After another great descent (although slightly hairy given the total lack of visibility) we reached the village of St Marie de Campan, a small village I had been to one time before, sat at the base of the daddy of the Pyrenees: the Col du Tourmalet.
The Tourmalet (Hors Categorie) has its reputation for a reason and as I have ridden over it before I knew that after a steady incline for the first 5 or 6km we then faced around 12km of pretty relentless steepness to the summit at 2115m. I was at the base at around 11am and the sun was beginning to burn of the mist and cloud and the temperature was beginning to rise. As I climbed at a steady pace a found a rhythm and just took in the grandeur of the road, before rising above cloud level to the heat of the midday sun as I reached the small ski station called La Mongie around 4km from the top. The final 4km of switchbacks before the top are particularly steep but by this point I was enjoying it so much I barely even noticed as I reached the top under crystal clear blue skies.
The views from the top down the other side of the valley are breathtaking and I loitered at the top for around 45mins taking photos and welcoming each of the other riders as they cycled over the top. Then following a feed I dropped over the other side of the Tourmalet for one of the best (and longest) descents you will find in the Pyrenees. If you get a rush from speed then this one is for you! The only niggling thought at the back of my mind was that I knew that in two days time we would be coming back over the Tourmalet from this direction at the end of a long stage...36km downhill would be tough challenge the other way! All but the last 10km into a massive headwind was a total thrill.
Our lunch stop was on the village green of Argeles Gazost right at the base of the final climb of the day, the Col de l’Aubisque (via the Col du Solour), the second Hors Categorie climb of today. Knowing that this was the last real test of the day I stocked up on food and headed out with Williams and Roly. Within the first kilometre of the climb I felt so good I just went (note to Williams: this is how to execute an attack!) and glided up the climb. After a particular steep section up to the top of the Solour I paused briefly and got some hairy/dirty French motorcyclist to take a quick snap before heading down a brief descent before the final pitch up to the summit of the Aubisque. This little stretch of road, hugging the side of the cliff face, was just the most stunning section of road with a vista to rival anything. There really wasn’t enough time to take it all in.
I hit the summit on my own and well clear of the others, meeting up with the three guys that had been at the front of the peloton before heading down the final 60km descent of the day into Pau.
Cycling really does not get any better, an absolutely non-stop glory ride through the best the Pyrenees has to offer. Cycle Sport describes the stage “as aesthetically pleasing as a mountain stage can be”... spot on!
A totally unforgettable day and one I will hopefully repeat in the near future.
Tomorrow is a well earned rest day in Pau, before we finish once again atop the Tourmalet on Wednesday.
S
Time: 9hrs 29mins
Distance: 199.6km
Av Speed: 21km/h
Total Ascent: 4516m (note this is equivalent to pedalling over half way up Everest in a day!)
Av HR: 130pm
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