Hills of Hong Kong: Big Buddha

As the, long overdue, third part in the series looking at the Hills of Hong Kong, we return to Lantau Island for the climb to the "Big Buddha".

The Tian Tan Buddha, commonly known as the Big Buddha, is perhaps Lantau’s biggest tourist attraction. It was ‘the world's tallest outdoor bronze seated Buddha’ prior to 2007 (I am not sure which Buddha now holds this venerable title…) – impressive I hear you think, but it was only built/completed in 1993 and seems to have been erected chiefly with tourists in mind (the nearby Po Lin Monastery, a genuine ‘centre of Buddhism in Hong Kong’ was founded as far back as 1906), something that is confirmed by the nearby Disneyfied ‘village’ of Nong Ping 360 (more of a tacky retail and entertainment centre than a village).

Tourists are brought up to the Big Buddha from Tung Chung by the Ngong Ping Cable Car; the more adventurous cyclists start their climb to enlightenment under their own steam from Shek Pik reservoir.

Hello Buddha!

The Route

The majority of cyclist will have already tackled (and conquered?) the Beast before dropping down to Pui O Wan and heading west along South Lantau Road. South Lantau Road provides a welcome respite and some rolling terrain before arriving at the dam at Shek Pik Reservoir – the reservoir to your right and a view over Shek Pik Prison to your left.

There may be some difference in opinion as to when the real climb to the Big Buddha starts, but there is little argument that the road turns quickly upwards as you leave the reservoir behind and hit Keng Shan Road.

The climb totals 4.4km in length with an average gradient of 8.2%, but there are many changes in pitch along the way that flatter to deceive. The climb to the crest of Keng Shan Road is consistent, before a right turn towards Nong Ping offers some extreme pitches, a nice flat section and then a wall to the finish.

3km of steady climbing before a small rest and then a final push to the finish

The final section of the climb; 2km of contrasts.... flats and walls

The Climb

The climb to Big Buddha offers it all; some consistent (if steep) climbing, extreme pitches, a section of flat and a ‘wall’ to finish it off. It is a climb that can be brutal the first few times, but once you have tackled it and know what to expect it becomes less of a challenge.

The climb from Shek Pik to the crest of Keng Shan Road, after an initial gentle start, maintains a consistent gradient of 10-12% for 2kms+, enough to get the heart pumping and the legs burning. If that doesn’t raise the heart rate, the tight, steep corners with buses taking tourists to the Buddha whizzing (far too closely) past you will.

As you reach the crest of the initial section of the climb, instead of following the road as it drops down to Tai O a right turn takes you up towards Nong Ping and the Big Buddha – from here on the terrain is more varied.

The first 700 metres includes short pitches of 21% and 29%, which require periods out of the saddle, before levelling off completely for 800 metres of recovery time.

Water buffalo roaming around 

Having had the opportunity to take a rest, carefully cycling past Lantau’s feral cattle and water buffalo that often roam this section, the road straightens and reveals the last 800 metre ‘wall’ with gradients never dipping below 11% and for the majority of the time sitting comfortably at 18-21%. You can see the crest of the road stretched out in front of you, but every time you find the energy to raise your head it rarely seems to be getting any closer.

On hitting the top, you can see the Big Buddha ahead and freewheel the last 100 metres to the tourist circus surrounding him.

Dogs are circling me everywhere (out of shot...)

Summary

The climb to enlightenment may not be an easy one, but it is certainly rewarding. Heading up to the Big Buddha can at first seem daunting, and the unpredictable nature of the road can catch a few riders out, but once you have had Buddha in your sight a few times the climb becomes more predictable and allows you measure your efforts.

There are some brutal gradients and some more forgiving ones, making the climb a perfect opportunity to test your climbing skills on varying terrain.

Its Strava leaderboard can be found here.